email:  flipprboi@benjiescaferacer.com

Pierson Ave.       
Edison, NJ 08837                                    
USA                                  
The bike started as a  1969 Honda CB350 twin runner with high bars, cracked intake boots, open straight pipe.
Oh yeah like any old classic bike, it leaked everywhere, gas and oil. One thing we like about this bike other than
it being a twin is how it came with alloy shouldered wheels. Akront in the front and DID in the rear. They dont
match but it will give the bike character and flavor. Oh yeah sprockets wasnt lined up because of the cb400F  
rear hub that was used. We were just going to switch it to an original 350 drum, but we like the bigger beefier
drum. So to solve this problem, we just offset the front sprocket to line up with the rear .  

Originally were just going to make a cafe style seat and bars, paint it black, slap some  some checkered
stripes on the tank and  put cafe on the side covers and then call it cafe. But its been done so many times so
figured we'd do something different and original go the extra mile. At first we were  hesitant about building a
cafe bike out of a cb350 because  of  the small displacement, but after some time looking at the bike and seen
its potential, we quickly fell in love with the project  and couldn't stop working on it.  We named this little
monster
 "EL POQUITO" ( the little one )    
Picture of the bike when we got it  Nov
2007
After draining the oil and gas, we took the tank, seat, wiring, bars, lights and other stuff that we don't need for
mock-up. What we planned for this bike, is something simple and light. Something that would look like a
vintage road racer/cafe racer and to make the parts BOLT-ON. Sure we could just weld brackets and chop
away, but being in the business of selling cafe conversions, we want to make the parts easy to install without
mods to the frame.   

The engine is small so we just want to make it as light as we could, and we want to make the bike look
bigger and aggressive. To get the look that we want, we designed a tank tank that is stretched and narrow.
And of course knee indents too. Every cafe tank should have them to set them apart from regular tanks.  And
the seat, we just want it short and simple and not pass the rear wheel to give the bike a stretched look.

In making a master mold we prefer to to start it by using metal as a foundation, then cover it up with filler.  We
use 20 gauge sheet metal and shape it with an english wheel. Its the same process as making an actual
metal tank and seat, but with thinner gauge metal and not so much into detail in making the surface smooth.
 Sure you could use foam, but its easier for us to use metal, plus we could  reuse the master mold if we want
to make another set of production mold.
Now that we have the actual tank and seat its time to set it on the bike and do some mock-ups on the
battery box, rear sets, and clip-ons.

We are not really a big fan of clubman bars so we decided to make clip ons and set it to the angle the way
we want. We use stainless steel in making the clip ons to give the bike a more vintage look compared to
aluminum.

Because of how short our seat is and how our fiberglass seats are all double reinforced, we decided to
do something different. We mounted the battery lower to the swing arm, where the center stand used to
be mounted. Plus having the battery lower to the ground gives the bike a lower center of  gravity. In
choosing a battery, we wanted something small yet powerful enough to just power up the necessary
lights. So we decided to just  use a 12 V scooter battery. There was a trade-off though in using a small
battery.  Scooter battery aren't strong enough to power up the starter motor, but being a big fan of  kick
start, we just got rid off the starter motor and will just kick start this bike. Plus getting rid off the starter
motor saves us some weight.  

To match the bars, we are using stainless as well for rear sets. For mounting  location for the rear sets,
we are just using the passenger pegs location, less work for us, plus the position is perfect with our  
stretched tank.
Now that we have the tank and seat made and mounted, its time to do some detail work on the frame.  CB350
frame are 75% flat sheet pressed metal and 25% tubular. If a structure is pressed, more likely it will have lip at
the edge to serve as strength. Not really a big fan of unused  cluttered factory tabs and brackets sticking out, so
what we did was grind-off the lip and boxed the structure. It looks cleaner and more of a tubular look to it.  We
also drilled a couple of holes to the panels that we used to box the structure so when the frame get some
powder coat treatment, the inside of the frame will get powder coat as well. We also grind-off the lip that joins
the two center structure of the frame (down tube), then welded the inside and outside of the structure for
strength. Then to finish off the tail of the frame, we added a round off  bar that follows the contour of the tail part
of the seat. It looks cleaner and looks like the frame was really made for the seat. We also decided to move the
side stand. The stock location was in the way of the shifter lever so we moved it forward, plus we didn't like the
look of the side stand sticking out next to the swing arm when its folded. We want the frame lines to be
undisturbed and free from clutter.         
When we make changes on a factory bike, we want to put in less of what the bike came with. We try to make
sure that people wouldn't know what the bike originally was. We don't want to just re-chrome, re-polished or
change the color of a certain part and call it custom. We want to make it look different.

So when it was time to do dash, we didnt want to just use the original bracket that was holding the gauge. We
want it clean,  simple not sticking out. Plus we didnt want no factory idiot Christmas warning lights. So what we
did was filled the holes on the upper trees where the bar brackets use to be mounted to and cut a portion of
trees  so the gauge would be plush against it, but with a slight angle for easy viewing. Like any of our bikes, we
want it to be to a minimum so we a speedometer is out.

Inspired by Norton's Manx and Matchless' G50,  we decided not to run a headlight and make our rendition of a
fairing/number plate that were used in isle of man racing in the late 50s and  60s. The  original number plated
were flat in front. But always trying to find a way to make things different, we opted  for a rounder more
aerodynamic front.  In mounting the fiberglass fairing/number plate,  we fabricated a more maintenance free
stainless brackets.    
Now that  the little details and mods are done on the frame, it's time to make the exhaust. We are always been
a big fan of twins because of its distinctive sound. But with how narrow  twin engines are specially on this bike,
designing an exhaust will be unlimited even without doing any mods to the stock frame. Sure we could just run
our own pea shooters, but always wanting to out do our last bike, we decided to make a high side 2 into 1 w/
trap disc silencer w/a dummy pea tip.  And of course, we are using full stainless materials. Sure using regular
mild steel is easier and cheaper, but we want it to last and we want that gold hue that the material turns into
once it  gets hot. Stainless has a distinctive color when it gets hot and used. It looks more vintage than regular
chrome.  We call this exhaust a "p-trap system".  We dint want a 2 into 2 system simply because it would be an
overkill for this little bike.  Being on the left side of the bike is the easiest  and safe side to roll a bike since the
side stand is on that side, we decided to run everything on the opposite side (throttle side) so when the bike is
being rolled, the person that is moving the bike wouldn't get burn form accidentally touching the hot pipe.  Plus
the CLs had it on the shifter side. We didn't want other builders to think that we just used the stock headers of a
CL  and run a collector and muffler and call one of BCR's exhaust. Like always, we want something different.  
And to avoid the hot collector pipe from touching the rider's leg, we ran the pipe more on the inside and brought
it out pass the frame and around the shocks.  And to finish off  the exhaust and to give it some detail, we
fabricated a drilled swiss cheese head shield and powder coat it matte black.         
Now that all the mock-ups and fabrication are all done, it's time to do the finishing and
engine work. We had only had the tank and fairing painted. And the rest, we had them  
buffed or powder coated. Believe it or not, not one piece of this bike was chromed. Not
really a big fan of chrome. Anything that looks chrome on this bike are stainless. We
had a couple of problems with chrome that's why we switched to stainless. Stainless
last forever and could easily be cleaned or re-buffed. We wanted the tank to be
somewhat  a center piece of the bike. We want it to be the first thing you see when you
look at the bike. So in picking a color, we chose wine vintage red and outlined it with
double silver pinstripe ( thick n thin ), and of course a BCR  logo in the center. The seat,
to follow the vintage look that we want on this bike, we had it wrapped in black vinyl
w/red stiches to match the tank. The Fenders, we made it out of carbon fiber to make it
stand out, but dark enough so it won't take the attention away from the tank. And in
mounting the fenders, we  used stainless brackets and fasteners. Since the CF
fenders are on both ends of the bike, we wanted something the same material in the
middle. So opted to make the points and cam covers out of carbon fiber as well. It's not
too big that it'll make the bike look modern, but enough to just give detail to the engine.
The engine side covers, we want it to look as if it was an exotic material so we had it
powder coated with dark bronze color ( I have a feeling this will be the next big thing in
cafe custom since battery rellocation). The cylinder head, drums, hubs and frame were
powder coated gloss black to match, and the trees and rear set brackets were powder
coated flat black so it will be noticed that it isn't part of the frame. Instead of using
plastic cable ties to hold the cables and wires, we fabricated aluminum brackets to
hold the cables and the old style plastic hose for the tank's breather. We could have just
used plastic cable ties, but we want a more detail classic look. The number
plate/fairing we had it painted gloss black with yellow plate outline and had "08" made
from a sticker company that does custom made computer cut decals.
El Poquito Sights and Sounds
El Poquito Parts and Full Conversion
El Poquito Slide Gallery
We are happy at how this project turned out. The CB 350's platform was easy to work with and working around the frame was easier than we thought it would be.  Other
than the pressed formed structure on the seat frame,
 the Cb350 frames are straight forward, no unusual bends or curves and the lines divides the frame in somewhat
proportional sections and has enough room for simple modifications.  We would recommend this project to any novice or even an expert builder. It's fun, its easy and parts
for the engine is available at your local Honda dealer or even Ebay, and of corse, our parts are blot-on. Riding this bike is "ton-up"  fun experience. Might not be as fast as
other bigger displacement classics in straight aways, but riding this bike in the twisties will make you ride the turns fast with ease and confidence  because of  how light
and easy it is to man handle and  bank even the  tight turns. Now i know why a lot of  weekend road racers choose CB350s  for vintage club racing.  We have plans of
making "el poquito" a street legal bike in the future, by mounting a headlight and tail light, but as of now, we are happy with our little monster the way he is. It  attracts
attention every time we take it out for a spin. Every time people would ask what kinda a bike is it, we would always say  "Its BCR's little monster,
 El Poquito."